Diced raw veal sits alongside cubed watermelon in a pink-hued tartare creating a game of tastebud roulette where diners are unsure if they’ll get meat or fruit with each bite. It’s not only a cheeky piece of theatrics, but a cracking flavour combination – and that’s exactly what Allium aims to deliver.

The smart, minimalistic 36-seater from chef-owner James Gallagher sets the mood from the front door with a handsome charcoal palette brightened by the lights of the open kitchen and simple, elegant stone bar.

Friendly, well-trained staff seat guests, eager to organise them a drink from the compact yet clever list, encompassing everything from biodynamic wines to well-made signature cocktails. The European-influenced menu is equally tight, but what it lacks in options it delivers in interest.

As well as tartare, entrees could include a meltingly tender strip of pork belly joined by quenelles of spiced carrot puree, and a sticky date gel crowned with a curl of irresistibly good bubbly pork crackle.

Mains – though sometimes under-seasoned – harness great ingredients like Goldfield lamb, accompanied by a classic matching of peas and whipped feta. While sides, such as bowl of creamed corn lightened by creme fraiche and zingy with lime, are a welcome addition.

Although Allium is the type of neighbourhood restaurant diners need to dress up for, it’s well worth the effort.

Must-eat dish: The veal and watermelon tartare
Instagram: @alliumbrisbane