“Mix them together, that’s what I do. But I’m a guts,” says a cheeky waiter, as we snack on complimentary almonds of varying sweetness and spice, and deliberate on which dips to order. All the usual suspects are there: Syrian hummus and baba ghanoush, of course, but also a cumin-laced muhamarra, a chilli-capsicum dip that tingles on the tongue, and thick za’atar-spiked labne. Tangy mixed pickles are a hyper-colour dream with baby florets of pale pink cauliflower, emerald slivers of wild cucumber, ruby turnips and whole dancing chillies. Hold onto your dips folks, they come in handy.

After more than a decade of service, the Almond Bar welcome is just as warm. Water is poured from a height via a traditional Lebanese pitcher, and the wine with similar confidence. A spicy, SA grenache is bold enough to stand up to the dessert-like sweetness of whole-roasted pumpkin, dusted with toasted seeds, but perhaps not to the fluffy mukloubi, a bronzed pilaf of shredded chicken, eggplant and “at least seven different spices.” It tastes of cinnamon doughnuts, and is a good segue to the finale: crisp filo “lady’s arms” of Lebanese clotted cream, or a whole baked apple, sweet and saucy with baharat, and a round of fresh mint teas. Those with avo toast and eggs fatigue will appreciate the Syrian brunch spread on the first Sunday of the month, with ful mudammas, traditional omelettes with spicy sausage and more.

Must Eat Dish: Syrian apple crumble