For too long Melbourne had the monopoly on Greek food, but Sydney is slowly catching up. There’s Jonathan Barthelmess’s Apollo in Potts Point, the soon-to-open 1821 in the CBD from David Tsirekas and Peter Conistis’ Alpha, housed in the grand Hellenic Club in the CBD.

Gone are the clichéd white and blue Santorini-styled interiors in favour of slick, modern spaces. At Alpha the menu covers the usual favourites, including dips served with warm pita bread, spanakopita, grilled octopus, a pull-apart lamb shoulder and loukoumades — doughnut balls covered in honey.

But there are also contemporary takes on the classics, such as Greek coffee spiced lamb cutlets and moussaka with eggplant, seared scallops and taramasalata. Melbourne, you’re on notice.

Must eat: Greek spiced slow roasted lamb shoulder with tzatziki and roast potatoes