Diners of all nationalities gather at this white-columned dining hall and turn the large cavernous space into a big, fat Greek party, where head chef Peter Conistis puts on a wood-fuelled feast to make his ancient ancestors proud. 

Start with taramosalata, a creamy, lemony whip made from three types of fish eggs, followed by yemistes, rice and herb-stuffed capsicums baked in clay. The finished piece of pottery is shattered at the table, revealing the sweet red flesh within. However, it’s Alpha’s Greek lamb that really inspires worship. Crisp, brown edges give way to soft shreds, which can be bundled up in pita triangles with yoghurt for a sophisticated take on simple Athens street food. 

The Greeks may have been making wine for thousands of years, but it’s only recently that it’s starting to appear on restaurant menus. Don’t miss the opportunity to try their excellent range of varietals, with offerings from right across the Hellenic nation and islands, too. No meal is complete without a final cap of ouzo. Then another. And another. It might be time to join the others on their pilgrimage to Beta Bar upstairs.

Must Eat Dish: Three Roe Taramosalata