Bellbirds tinkle out in Warrandyte but the siren call of seriously good cooking is rarely heard in these parts.

Altair – now in its third year, is breaking that silence. Kelvin and Michelle Shaw’s enchanting restaurant is setting a new standard for the riverside township by finding inspiration in its gum-treed surrounds.

On a visit in late spring, lemon myrtle and river mint were used to infuse a cured kingfish entree, wild dill ornamenting salt-baked celeriac, and wattleseed perked up an XO-poached pink ling.

But Shaw’s accomplished cooking goes well beyond namechecking indigenous ingredients.

Look at how he orchestrates chestnuts, cherries and currants over a slurry of sweet potato – one of the loveliest vegetarian dishes we’ve encountered, or de-bones roasted spatchcock so it’s ready for dunking in a limpid tarragon sauce.

As for Altair’s twice-cooked lamb neck with sheep’s milk… sublime.

Out front, Michelle is the perfect host and sure to find the right wine for you from a tightly curated list.

No one leaves Altair without trying the rose and strawberry gum donuts, and having tasted them, few people can resist coming back.

Must-eat dish: Roasted spatchcock
Instagram: @altair_restaurant