A big-money venture, it’s a mass of black cladding and sharp angles amongst the vines; the interior distinctly international. Look inward and there are no nods to the bucolic setting with the sparkle of chandeliers, dark tones and plush décor; look outward and the aspect is rows of vines in one of Australia’s premier wine regions. Blair Allen commands his space at the pass, a kitchen designed for him, with all the whistles and bells; but do the dollars stack up?

The absence of formality to the service and menu are immediately apparent. It’s welcome on both counts. There’s no tasting menu here; no dego wankery. I’m all in for innovation but I find myself worn out by tiny mouthfuls of food; the stop start atmosphere of a tasting menu; pausing the conversation to nod dutifully, to ooh and coo, at chefs masterful expression of a kohlrabi. This dining room would be the perfect setting for that and would no doubt draw customers paying top dollar, but the Allen’s having taken a different route.

They’ve fashioned a menu that’s old school a la carte at heart, with modern aspects of sharing. To Blair Allen’s mind, it’s an essential element of flexibility, where families can gather, bring the kids or an older generation unaffected by our obsession with food and those who cook it. They say you can’t please all of the people all the time, but the Allen’s might be close to cracking that.

We hit the menu hard. I’m the only local to WA, the rest having flown in from Singapore, thirsty for a taste of the regions wine and hungry for our quality produce. There are expletives traded over the fresh crunch of a bowl of lettuce. Lamb neck sausage roll with black garlic ketchup is a case of blink and it’s gone; the truffle toasties go the same way, but not before I grab the last half. It’s heavy on truffle funk, as it should, with enough cheese to hit those comfort feels. Meaty, crisp fish wings with chilli are zealously guarded from across the table.  As with the lamb neck, it’s one for another time.

I’ve previously declared my love of a steak tartare, but bone marrow pips it; a hangover to days of having Fergus Henderson’s St John as my local. But here they’re paired as a hefty starter with chicken skin crackers to complete what could be to some, an unholy trinity. The tartare alone would suffice with the yolk and a sweet carrot emulsion, but the additions elevate not detract; whether you use the thin savoury skin as a vehicle for the steak or the marrow; or allow the marrow to impart warmth and fat to the cool, lean steak. A winner: on the plate and Insta.

A generous lamb rack blushes, served on celeriac mash; it’s simple, restrained cooking. This dish as with others could be over cheffed: the temptation of another element. Often it’s what you leave off that shows the skill. Generosity applies across the board, sides ample for two or three.

An old school ethos, complimentary house baked sourdough, a handle on great regional produce and a front of house as polished as the kitchen may not be pushing any boundaries of innovation but it certainly proves that Blair and Renee Allen know what people want and how to give it to them.