How does she do it? How does Thi Le take something as humble as lamb neck and turn it into one of the greatest things you will eat this year?

“It’s all in the masterstock,” says the head chef behind Anchovy. Beyond that, Le is not inclined to explain how she gets this tender cut so dark and blistered on the outside and so supple within, or how she came to team it with daikon pickles and milk buns.

At Anchovy, an “Asian Australian” restaurant like no other, it’s best to stop talking and just eat. Bring on the blood pudding and ginger snack, the refreshing chicory and pineapple starter, the stir-fried drop noodles dense with red curry spice… it’s all ridiculously good and served (by co-owner Jia-Yen Lee) in a simple shopfront dining room.

Nothing fancy. Just a comfy banquette down one side, a round table at the front and some bar seating. A tightly curated drinks list beckons.

Viet-born Le has blue ribbon credentials – working with the likes of Andrew McConnell and Christine Manfield – but at Anchovy, she is finding her own special groove. And anyone who has closed a meal here with jasmine poached quince, fermented ice cream and brik pastry knows Melbourne is very, very lucky to have Le’s unique blend of “Asian Australian”.

Must-eat dish: Three Rivers lamb neck
Instagram: @anchovy338