Most people experience a kind of food nostalgia when looking back across the years. Different cuisines rise and fall in popularity, sometimes so much so that whole decades can be defined by the foods that were in vogue.

These days we’re enjoying a renaissance of South American foods, spicing up our palates with everything from newspaper-wrapped quesadillas to marathon-sized barbecue steaks.

It’s with this in mind that Perth has welcomed the opening of its first Venezuelan restaurant. Angel Falls Grill is just over two months old, but its exotic take on all things South American has seen it quickly become a hive of activity, with curious punters coming to sample, experience and find out what exactly Venezuelan food is.

Named after the world’s highest uninterrupted waterfall – the gem of Venezuela’s exquisite natural beauty – Angel Falls Grill is essentially a love letter from its owners, expats Gilda Cariello and Sergio Yibrin, to their home country. Gilda and Sergio came to Perth some three years ago and, aiming to fill Perth’s Venezuelan food-gap, began taste testing their recipes at the Maylands, Mt Hawthorn and Subiaco Markets. Gathering a loyal following of customers, they finally decided to bite the bullet and launch their restaurant-grill.

The result is a vivacious little eatery, embodying the South American spirit in a cheerful fusion of street-inspired foods in a restaurant setting. Carnaval-style salsa music wafts through its wide and open windows onto the bustling Shafto Lane while head chef Juan Pablo Leon busily prepares his fare using traditional Venezuelan cooking techniques.

The interior is simple, even minimalistic, with classic wooden features, an understated smattering of pendant lights over the bar, and a large mural of the iconic falls plastering a feature wall. Angel Falls Grill is more about the food than the smoke and mirrors of the interior.

And grill is what they do. The menu is a carnivore’s fantasy which took the business trio around three months to develop. It offers all Venezuela’s most quintessential items, from flirtatious little pulled pork empanadas to its totally carnal, finger-licking barbecue. Ingredients are sourced locally wherever possible, although according to Gilda, Angel Falls Grill is strictly about authenticity – the more niche flavours and textures of its fare must come directly from the Americas.

Chef Juan’s preferred technique of meat preparation is an involved but traditional process, with great strips of meat smoked over woodchips before it heads into the kitchen for final preparation. Most meat dishes are served with a typically Venezuelan side, including either arepas (an unleavened bread made with white maize flour) or cachapas (a bright yellow pancake made from corn dough).

A plate of assorted fresh empanadas is Angel Falls Grill’s classic starter. Served with a side of coriander aioli for dunking, the empanadas’ light and crispy pastry exterior allows the flavours of Juan’s famous smoked meat samples to shine. Fillings include a slow roasted shredded beef, a shredded chicken with bacon and cheese, a beef with black bean and feta, as well as a deliciously cheesy melted feta and cheddar.

The red wine black beef asado stew with cachapas makes a desperately tender main; the round eye roast breaks away with just the slice of a fork. It is subtly, unobtrusively, seasoned with the traditional flavourings of South American cooking, and served blanketed in the cachapas. The black stew is surprisingly delicate, and a textural delight.

Angel Falls Grill’s ‘AFG’ parrilla is, conversely, an audacious homage to Venezuelan barbecue. Loud and proud chunks of smoked steak, grilled chicken tenderloin and spiralled chorizo are served with a side of black-bean dotted congri rice, the chunky yuca chips, and Venezuaela’s vividly green answer to guacamole, the house-made guasacaca sauce. The steak is succulent and, although generously seasoned, very simply served. The quality of the meat speaks for itself.

Dessert is a must, even for those without a sweet-tooth, owing to Angel Falls Grill’s three milk cake. It’s loosely reminiscent of a white mud cake, but light enough to leave you wanting more. The three milk cake is made with evaporated, condensed and whole milk, and is served as a magnificent slab. The top is kissed with golden meringue and is smothered in a thick layer of extra condensed milk for good measure. Don’t leave without it.

For those eating their way through this decade with an unexplainable penchant for slow cooked meats, red peppers, coriander and corn-based breads, this Perth newby will hit the spot with its South American food with a twist. Be sure to make a booking: tables on the weekend fill quickly, and you’d hate to be left disappointed.