Camel fillet, anyone?

The humpy fare is one of the star attractions on the innovative, locally-driven menu at the new Hotel Pullman Brisbane Airport restaurant, Apron.

Executive chef Justin Zammit (ex-QT Gold Coast) has embraced the chance to show off the state’s best produce to potential overseas and interstate visitors, with the likes of suckling pig from Schultz Farm near Toowoomba, camel from the Scenic Rim, and wagyu from west of Warwick.

There’s also local seafood on show, from Moreton Bay bugs and oysters to mud crab, which comes folded through a stunning congee – bright with Chinese rice wine, pickled zucchini and a scattering of the southern Australian native succulent karkalla, also known as pig face or beach bananas.

The camel fillet was sold out on our visit, but the raviolo filled with miso and koji-braised beef made up for the disappointment, packing more umami punches than Floyd Mayweather.

This is a menu clearly trying to push boundaries. And while the entrees sing like Pavarotti, the mains are more like an Australian Idol contestant – brimming with passion and potential, but not quite able to hit the high notes.

There’s simply too much going on in a rabbit ballotine, which is overcooked and unnecessarily garnished with superfluous toffee slivers and sweet hazelnut sponge cake. Overcooking also undoes the delights of the suckling pig dish, where an oozy sage beignet and sweet carrot puree shine.

Perhaps the biggest problem is the fit-out. The design does nothing to mask the fact you’re in an airport hotel – too bright, clinical and cookie-cutter.

Apron has serious potential, but tweaks to the dining room and more care with execution are needed.