There have been a few changes of late at Matt Moran’s iconic riverside eatery.

After eight years, Aria has been given a minor spruce up – new lighting, artwork and carpet.

The biggest change, however, is the transformation of the menu.

Brought in line with its Sydney big brother, it is divided into courses labelled one, two, three and four – light entrees, heavier entrees, mains and desserts – with diners to choose a minimum of two courses from $95.

The dishes have been stripped back with cheffy flourishes giving way to a simple, produce-driven approach where the ingredients are the stars.

Bite-sized cubes of scorched king salmon are served with twirls of tart kohlrabi and a wasabi-spiked soy bean sauce. Caramelised Moreton Bay bug is boosted by umami notes from shiitake mushrooms and a seaweed butter.

A main course of roasted lamb loin is exceptional, the meat sweet and pure, accompanied by a baba ghanoush-like blend and miso-infused eggplant pieces. The duck is equally appetising. Its fat is expertly rendered, its flesh blushing, while a sharp, red cabbage mousse offers balance.

Desserts also highlight restraint. A halved fig is topped with sugar and bruleed, served with whipped ricotta, crumbled cookie and slices of red grape. It is beautiful to behold.

A refreshed drinks list presents precisely executed cocktails as well as wines that offer a mix of boutique producers and big name Aussie classics.

What isn’t new, but perhaps deserves the most praise, is the outstanding service. Genial, poised and intuitive, staff masterfully negotiate tables delivering expert attention.

With its recent tweaks, Aria is proving, like fine wine, some things truly do get better with age.