While Aria may have received a minor spruce up this year with new moody lighting, fresh artwork and carpet, it’s the changes to the menu that have given top chef Matt Moran’s signature fine diner a new lease on life.

The riverside restaurant has been brought into line with its Sydney big brother of the same name, with diners choosing a minimum of two courses (starting at $95) from a collection of light entrees, heavier entrees, mains and desserts.

The dishes have been stripped back – unnecessary elements and over-the-top cheffy flourishes giving way to a simple, produce-driven approach where the exceptional ingredients are the stars. Think bite-sized cubes of melting king salmon gently scorched alongside twirls of tart kohlrabi and a wasabi-spiked soy bean sauce, or gently caramelised Moreton Bay bug, boosted by umami notes from shiitake mushrooms and a melted seaweed butter.

Meanwhile, mains include the likes of plum-pink roasted lamb loin, the meat naturally sweet and pure, accompanied by a baba ganoush-like blend and miso-infused eggplant pieces.

Desserts also highlight restraint. Take, for example, a halved fig, its surface brandished with sugar and bruleed, sitting beside a swipe of whipped, meringue-like ricotta, crumbled cookie and slices of red grape.

A refreshed drinks list encompassing precisely executed cocktails and wines swaying from boutique, small producers to big name Australian classics is well-pitched to the food, while the service is simply outstanding. Congenial, effortless and intuitive staff masterfully negotiate tables delivering expert care and attention.

Having recently celebrated its eighth birthday, Aria is proving that, like fine wine, some things truly do get better with age.

Must-eat dish: Roast lamb loin, eggplant, miso
Instagram: @ariabrisbane