Celebrity chefs have surpassed rock stars. It wasn’t that long ago that street cred came from the last band you saw live. Now you get badges of honour by dining at the latest ‘it’ restaurant before your peers can pull on a bib.

Some chefs on the fast track to stardom lose their grip on the very reason they received notoriety in the first place – their restaurant.

But some have an incredible knack of straddling success in both.

Matt Moran is one such chef. He is forever in our magazines and on the small screen, but equally, he’s still happy to roll up his sleeves.

Aria, co-owned with Solotel’s Bruce Solomon, has sent symphonic waves across the harbour for 17 years now. And though most would be tempted to settle with ‘if it ain’t broke,’ Moran recognised it was time to evolve.

They rebuilt the kitchen, reshaped the dining room and installed a sultry, sophisticated bar worthy of a visit in its own right.

Wall art by floral sculptor Tracey Deep, leather wall panels, and timber ceilings complement the view.

Together with new head chef Jason Staudt, Moran has breathed new life into this stalwart with a menu offering two to four courses. You choose.

Coral trout sashimi is texturally spectacular. Bloody Mary sorbet adds zing to tomato tartare. King George whiting sings with backing from areen tomato broth. Black beads of caviar crown champagne lobster on French toast. Charred corn supports a blushing pork loin, while pipis partner John Dory and slivers of cauliflower.

Then yuzu sorbet stars alongside strips of peach, and lychees hide beneath watermelon ice cream. Wow.

There’s an enlightening, renewed energy in the food and a new voice on the floor that’s worth listening to. Please, encore.