It’s been wooing diners with stellar harbour views and an uncanny knack of putting a sophisticated expression of Australia on a plate, but Matt Moran’s flagship restaurant has received a major facelift and reopened its doors with renewed vigour. The result is spectacular food.

It’s hard to believe but Aria, co-owned with Solotel’s Bruce Solomon, has sent symphonic waves across the harbour for 18 years now. It’s always full and so too are the guests when they leave, and though most would be tempted to settle with ‘if it ain’t broke’, Moran is the kind of chef that likes to stay ahead of the eight ball and as such, recognised an evolution was needed. They reshaped the dining room, installed a sultry, sophisticated bar worthy of a visit in its own right, and they even rebuilt the kitchen, giving the chefs new toys to play with. There’s wall art by floral sculptor Tracey Deep, timber ceilings, leather wall panels and of course the trademark views of our glorious nuns in a scrum and coathanger.

In the kitchen, Moran and head chef Jason Staudt have re-invigorated the Sydney stalwart with a menu that shows great restraint and champions Australia’s best in class produce too. Eggplant and white cabbage let Yellowfin tuna shine. Pink peppercorn and fresh peas underpin the sweet glory of King George Whiting. Spring carrots and a dense, velvet labneh make for great bedfellows with a blushing lamb loin, while a classic, light and aerated strawberry soufflé begs you to pour cream in its centre. The new Aria is every bit as special as the previous incarnation, but the renewed energy in the food will have you asking for an encore.
Must-eat dish: Roasted lamb loin, spring carrots, labneh, quinoa
Instagram: @ariarestaurant