Adding South American swagger to Southbank, Asado is the fourth meat-and-malbec venue from the San Telmo team. The 150-seat restaurant is stylishly on theme – hides and leather, chequered-tiled floors and mosaic murals – where cow is king and fire fuels the fun.

Chef Ollie Gould (Palermo) has added Asado to his remit but his brief remains the same; the namesake open fire pit takes pride of place on which whole beasts are splayed and roasted.

The roasted pig is very good. Soft and juicy with a tickle of fiery smoke, it’s full of flavour that comes alive with the house chimichurri. Teamed with carrots char-cooked on the parrilla grill and dressed with pepitas and yoghurt and a meal is made. 

A bowl of meaty diamond clams cooked with peas and a splash of sherry is a delicious hint of the Spanish lean to Gould’s menu, though it really is all about great steaks treated with respect and big, juicy South American reds from the extensive cellar to go with.

Bustling and busy with sharp service that keeps things humming, this bit of Buenos Aires by the Yarra is hot stuff. 

Must Eat Dish: Ojo de bife