Luckily for us, chef William Cowan Lunn (ex-Tetsuyas and Rockpool Melbourne) delivers, with an adventurous menu that never misses a beat. They’ve kept the wood-fired oven at the heart of the open kitchen, from which comes Mediterranean share plates in quick succession.

Spring Bay mussels and butter beans arrive in a glorious puddle of roasted chicken skin butter and roe. Impossibly tender pork skewers come with morsels of scallop and creamy spinach, and wildly good roasted leeks with Ortiz anchovies sit in a dreamy chicken emulsion. Wood-roasted half duck with mandarin is pink and juicy, with crispy, perfectly rendered skin and ample buttery jus. Picking the bones is a must. A side of charred cumin-roasted pumpkin with garlic yoghurt and verdant coriander oil is the perfect match.

For dessert, the warm chocolate mousse with mascarpone chantilly alone is worth the visit, airy and not too rich. The confident food and service of Ates is on par with any of Sydney’s heavy-hitting restaurants. Word is spreading fast, so do yourself a favour and book a table.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.