The world’s your oyster at Atlas Dining, 24-year-old chef/owner Charlie Carrington’s bold first venture having worked in the kitchens of Gordon Ramsay, Shannon Bennett and Lennox Hastie. The schtick here is that the cuisine changes every four months, and within that period, dishes can change weekly, too. It sounds gimmicky but is clever and considered, ensuring the kitchen is never tired, and nor are diners.

Successfully parlaying his love of travel and cooking into fresh, fire-touched dishes derived from time spent abroad, Carrington has already had baton changes to Israel, Korea and Vietnam since opening last year.

His latest sojourn puts Mexico on a plate, opening with a thick-crunch tostada sporting springy chilli-edged tiles of kingfish and a hefty dose of avocado.

Serves aren’t huge, but nor is the bill at $65 for five courses. Extend the adventure with extra dishes, like a charred octopus tentacle teamed with a salty chorizo rubble, or a clutch of sprightly salads to refresh a slice of pork belly with a beautifully smoky 37-ingredient mole.

Dishes are textural, technical and, above all, tasty. Staff offer warm welcomes and work the 50-seat room with ease, including presenting diners with a nifty leather knife roll containing the night’s cutlery.

The millennial menu touches down next in Peru, then France. Hitch a ride or you’ll miss it.

Must-eat dish: Pork belly with mole
Instagram: @atlasdining