Charlie Carrington’s globetrotting Atlas takes a round-the-world trip every four months. On this visit, it’s China, with the dishes of bold and beautiful Beijing and Chengdu (Sichuan province’s capital) laced with all types of pepper and spice. 

Nuances of Carrington’s glowing passion for wood-fired cooking are seen in the tasting menu on offer. A smoked-tender rainbow trout swimming in a punchy Sichuan pepper broth, and an eggplant twist on classic fragrant fish, are equally delicious. The menu does have its misses, like a bizarre date pudding dessert (and disappointingly, no dumplings this visit), but a glossy chicken liver parfait hidden beneath a nest of crisp enoki and grilled king brown mushrooms trumps the night. 

Loosen the tie with cuisine-matched wines and cocktails from sommelier Matthew Jensen’s approachable list while enjoying the cosied surrounds of the mod-look South Yarra restaurant. Atlas gives diners a cultured taste of the world, minus the pricey airfare.

Must Eat Dish: Chicken liver with grilled king brown mushrooms