Attica’s Ben Shewry has worn many hats in two years, but now the star chef is back doing what he does best at his Ripponlea restaurant that started it all. In the still dialled-down and relaxed space, you’ll forget you’re paying an eye-watering $360 for dinner.

Shewry’s playful take on bush tucker hasn’t changed either; it’s still approachable, delicious and quirky as ever. But his dish-inspo has. That peppery desert oak wattleseed dahl is inspired by a wholesome staff dinner by Attica’s longest-serving team members, subbing in Indigenous mardanggich (Kakadu plum) spice.

That burnt Basque cheesecake, warmed over campfire, enjoyed on a surprise mid-meal excursion, is an ode to those punishing lockdown months. And the roo frites? Oh that’s the France-Soir classic remixed, complete with skewered Skippy-meat, salad, crisp fries and DIY spray bottle of saltbush and vinegar to spritz as you wish. 

Shewry is the humble, quiet achiever making a lot of noise with his cooking and dinky-di, tongue-in-cheek attitude. Team that with rockstar service, out-of-this-world wines and street cred to boot, and Attica is silver service without the stuffiness. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.