Named after Pickett’s grandmother, who taught him to cook, it’s a classy affair with a marble bar stocked with caviar and Champagne, Tiffany-blue banquettes and rock star bay views.

Snacks land in quick succession to varied success, most notably flame-kissed abalone tickled with sweet glaze, and plump oysters adorned with finger lime. Our long-awaited “aha” moment hits with the squid and shiitake XO. Ultra-tender squid is cut into noodly tresses, alongside meaty mushroom cubes tumbled in a fiery XO sauce, packed with punchy spice and fragrant lemon.

This tempo continues with the main event, an aged John Dory fillet crowned with celeriac discs and pickled karkalla surrounded by a lickthe-plate-clean bordelaise made with tuna instead of veal marrow.

Feather-light meringue, topped with apple compote, white chocolate and tangy rhubarb puree is just enough until the kettle goes on. Audrey’s shows promise and will undoubtedly become a destination for daytripping city slickers and coastal-living Champagne sippers.

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