Aurora is part of a collective of hi-tech performance and hospitality spaces known as Light that has taken over what was originally a tobacco factory, then an adults’ club, on the western side of Light Square.

Wessels is originally from South Africa and one section of his menu is devoted to meats and fish from the “braii” or barbecue. Other plates show a mix of influences – South African, Thai, French and particularly Japanese – all elevated by small but significant touches of technical virtuosity.

Charred tube and fried tentacles of local calamari are matched with yuzu peel and smashed cucumber salad. A silken puree of eggplant and dashi is the mortar that binds fried pieces of tofu, chargrilled broccoli florets and toasted leaves of nori. A pair of garfish, split lengthwise, with their slender torsos striped by char, are laid over supple leaves of toasty-edged miso-brushed cabbage.

To finish, milk tart, South Africa’s national dessert, is reimagined as a delicate set custard with a fine sable biscuit lid, matched with mandarin syrup and an ice-cream flavoured by rooibos, the nation’s popular red tea.

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