The new wave of Australian dining is embodied by a wonderful natural, transparent honesty on the plate and a genuine intention to hero native ingredients. Complex and considered technique hiding behind a certain aesthetic simplicity without forgetting to deliver on the deliciousness.

Automata is the epitome of the movement that has brought all the casual fun back into dining without compromising on great food and cracking wine.

The game-changer opened last year in The Old Clare Hotel redevelopment and has fast become one of our most important restaurants. Avant-garde Singaporean entrepreneur Peng Loh nabbed talented ex-MomoFuku Seiobo chef Clayton Wells who has changed our perceptions of what it means to eat out circa 2016 in Sydney. Service is affable and sommelier Tim Watkins’ wine list is one of the most interesting and enjoyable in town and it’s the perfect ally for Wells’ $88 five-course set menu that changes weekly.

The fitout has an auto fixation chic industrial vibe – think high ceilings, polished concrete floors, open kitchen, lights fashioned from aircraft pistons and a chandelier made from an aircraft radial machine and a curvaceous timber slat ceiling.

Steamed eggplant and XO sauce add an umami oomph to delicately sweet bug tail. Grilled beans and tamari add an exclamation to wobbly steamed pork belly. Asparagus brings its grassy glory to a lean and clean bonito. The ever-changing menu makes Automata quite a moving feast that’s defined by beautiful cookery, considered enthusiasm and the customer in mind. No doubt it will continue to forge its own path.

Must eat: Burrata shellfish oil, kombu