I’m not a fan of shopping centres, or shopping for that matter. And as for restaurants in shopping centres, well, they may be a smash hit in New York, but here they’re viewed with suspicion.

Nevertheless, my fear of roaming through Westfield Sydney in search of the latest restaurant to open there abates when I find you can fast-track it to level seven in an express escalator.

Levantine-inspired Babylon is a vast oasis on the rooftop with multiple dining spaces sporting parquetry floors, marble-topped tables and booths for a lucky few, an outdoor bar and terrace and sleek indoor bar.

In fact, there’s more bar than restaurant and the sprawling drinks list that includes more than 250 whiskies and over 300 old and new wines would suggest a tilt at the after-work drink crowd. But they might want to consider taking a seat in the restaurant proper for a pretty decent exploration of the cuisines of the eastern Mediterranean countries like Israel, Lebanon, Cyprus and chef Arman Uz’s homeland, Turkey.

The waitstaff are overwhelmingly lovely and the enthusiastic clientele help generate a buzz, most excited to have stumbled upon the venue and catching up with friends. And you’ll need friends to make the most of the share plates. Baked okra with tomato, roasted garlic and feta is a joy, while raki-cured kingfish is brightened with a salad of fennel, radish and blood orange and avruga. Among the ‘fauna’, sumac onions, smoked eggplant, charred chillies and yoghurt neatly play supporting roles to well seasoned lamb and pistachio kebabs.

Kazandibi wins dessert – an Ottoman pudding of caramelised milk served with sour-cherry sorbet.

This isn’t a restaurant that will blow your mind, but, importantly, Babylon will transport you away from the shopping-centre mentality – and that’s pleasing indeed.