One of the great joys of cooler climes is the arrival of new-season mussels. Though available year round, during winter they’re plumper, sweeter, in abundance and should be consumed at any given moment.

At Bacco Osteria e Espresso their flesh is taken from the shell and served with whipped lardo, garlic chips and shaved carrot on toast a la bruschetta. It’s very satisfying.

But good food is nothing new if you’re talking of chef and restaurateur Andrew Cibej. Behind such culinary gems as Vini, Berta and 121BC, Cibej has always had a knack for producing fuss-free Italian-inspired eateries that bring flavour to the fore. Together with chef Scott Williams (ex-Movida), he has continued that approach, though this move into the city feels like a bit of a departure from the “Cibej” model that relied on the happy hum of elbow-to-elbow dining in a darkened room.

Bacco has that enoteca style, with timber panelling and floors, green banquettes and brown bistro chairs, but is much brighter, less intimate and there’s a bit more wriggle room than Cibej’s previous outposts. It’s an all-day affair this time too, but that’s not to say it’s any less enjoyable. The service is swift and suave and the wine heavy on Italian varietals with a good measure of natural too. But ultimately, Bacco is really about what’s on the plate.

Fluffy, caramelised, fingernail-sized pillows of gnocchi are served with pistachio, butter and pecorino – the recipe by Cibej’s Nonna. More, please.

Then blackened hanger steak is blushing red inside, the rich flavour of the beef tempered by anchovy and fermented radish butter. It’s stunning.

An almond and quince tart is a spoton sweet, like Bacco itself – swinging the bat in the business district, and hitting value right on the sweet spot.