The business of turning out fetching Italian food is in Bacco’s DNA. It was opened in 2017 by Andrew Cibej, who presided over several Sydney eateries noted for just that, not least the late, great Berta. Now chef Benjamin Haywood helms the finely wrought menu that speaks of generosity in both flavour and portion size.

Bruschetta ferrying a tumble of piquant eggplant, raisins, pine nuts and fine Ortiz anchovies brims with flavour, while the hefty crocchette of the day, in this case spicy ’nduja, is crisp and creamy in all the right places.

House-made pasta is a highlight. Tiny gnocchi, scattered with pistachio and sharpened with pecorino, are lovely and light. A spicy take on spaghetti carbonara, however, with cacciatorini salami standing in for guanciale, is let down by a heavy hand with the salt not taking the salty sausage into account. The lavish helping of osso buco, meanwhile, has depths of flavour in the complex sauce complementing a light risotto Milanese, all brightened with gremolata.

The tight wine list makes only one departure from Italy, the South Australian shiraz-mataro perhaps catering to city suits.

To finish, the almond tart with a tasty crumbly base is offset by seasonal fruit, perhaps tart plum.

It’s a food game that’s well played. The pared-back room, decked out with little more than a banquette, bare tables and bentwood chairs, makes a welcome slice of Italy in the city.