Bai Long Store has earned a strong reputation for its interesting sweep of very cool, very modern pan-Asian dishes, but its interpretation of Peking duck steals the show. Lean roasted slices of the bird, with a deep smokiness permeating the flesh, come with bao buns, pickles and other accompaniments – and that’s just the first course.

If you don’t want to invest $74 for this extravaganza (which could easily feed five), head to an enticing list of small plates including slices of pork belly with a film of crackling and grilled white kimchi, or crisp-fried chicken pieces glazed in sticky tomato and chilli sauce, topped with chopped peanuts and spring onion. Be sure to include deep-fried battered eggplant fingers dressed with feisty Sichuan caramel.

Main plates of seared ocean trout in shiitake broth and lamb rib caramelised with sweet chilli and soy are also impressive. From a modest drinks list, try an inventive house cocktail (how about gin, green tea and plum wine?), or international beers on tap.

A parable emblazoned on the wall speaks about balance – between light and dark – but it’s the striking balance captured between rich, satisfying flavours and the textural play in each dish that impresses most.

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