The signature restaurant of boutique hotel Spicers Balfour, Balfour Kitchen resides within the beautiful, old Queenslander’s front room and veranda and is like having a dinner party at a friend’s house.

There’s a casualness to the deck space, but also a sense of sophistication through white tablecloths and highly knowledgeable, well-informed staff — like your friends are trying to impress.

And impress they do with the modern, share-style, Vietnamese-fusion menu from talented chef Nick Stapleton.

Bold seasonings and plenty of heat are the stars here in dishes such as humming roasted pumpkin with a spiced coconut cream, herb oil and fried tempeh, or XO-infused rice loaded with mouthfuls of spanner crab and topped with sprouts and a white pepper-dusted fried egg.

Or for something milder, perhaps look to the prawn wontons, surprisingly tame hot, sweet and numbing lamb shoulder or cracking, thrice-cooked chat potatoes.

Well matched to the food is the mostly Australian wine list, dominated by light reds and aromatic whites, which come by the 75ml or 150ml pour, as well as by the bottle and, in some cases, magnum. While a thoughtful array of beers and ciders has also been chosen to balance the cuisine.

For a relaxed meal out that can be as casual or refined as you like, Balfour Kitchen delivers.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Roasted pumpkin with a spiced coconut cream