Set in the verandah and front room of the elegantly refurbished old Queenslander that is Spicers Balfour Retreat, The Balfour Kitchen does away with cookie-cutter hotel dining.

While there is a formality to the friendly, experienced service team, the space provides a casual charm that is quintessentially Queensland, reminiscent of having dinner on a friend’s front deck.

Michelin-trained, French-expat chef Jordan Clavaron plays up to his environment, embracing unique Aussie flavours alongside nods to the Middle East and Europe, all brought together with classic French techniques.

Take, for example, charred octopus, with tender, bite-sized tentacle pieces met by buttery potato puree and a fiery, walnut and capsicum-based, chilli-infused muhammara sauce.

Mains are hearty and generous, like snapper, yielding against the knife, atop an oily slick of al dente squid ink risotto and piquant capsicum puree, a mound of slivered fennel adding brightness.

The taste of Australia has no greater presence than in a brilliantly playful dessert starring Vegemite ice cream. Just a hint of the breakfast spread is detectable, adding saltiness to an intense, peanut butter parfait, amplified by pebbles of piped peanut butter and chocolate ganache.

A solid list of signature house and traditional cocktails, plus a crowd-pleasing, succinct, international wine list complete a package that appeals to both hotel guests and locals alike.

Must-eat dish: Peanut butter parfait, Vegemite ice cream
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