This is a puff piece. How can it not be, when every minute another platter with spheres of puffed-up flatbread whizzes by. It’s Sunday lunchtime, the sun is shining and the tables inside and outside Ballaboosta are full – and everyone, it seems, is having that not-so-flat bread.

Staff trot back and forth from the pizza oven to the tables and service is swift, so somehow everyone who pleads for a place is squeezed in.

The décor may be Mediterranean meets industrial but the food and vibe are all about family.

Ballaboosta’s food is made for sharing. The mezze of thumb-sized rice-stuffed vine leaves is a pleasant start but it’s the crunchy pastry of the hand-crimped sambousik that sparks joy. Stuffed with lamb mince and pine nuts, the little crescents are the perfect size for scooping up the accompanying hummus.

Fat, moist chicken skewers of shish tawook shine on a plate laden with a vibrant fattoush salad and, yes, more of that puffy flatbread.

After all that, you might struggle to fit in one of the woodfired pizzas so save that for another visit. Try the Inferno – it isn’t as dangerous as it sounds, with a just-there chilli burn lingering after you have finished the marinated artichoke, ham and roasted capsicum on a thin crust.