Native botanicals and Vermouth feature largely in this new offering from the Bar H team. With its cosy bar, smart service, pastels and hanging lights, Banksii fits better than most into the strip of cookie-cutter restaurants at Wulugul Walk,

Sommelier Rebecca Lines’ keenness to introduce guests to their array of Australian and international drops is infectious.

A strikingly green dish of Kinkawooka mussels with a vermouth and nettle butter base is packed with native sea succulents and chunks of Sicilian olive. A half duck requires more work than it should to divvy up but its honey glaze and pairing with Warrigal greens and vermouth-soaked Davidson plum more than redeem it. Stick around for dessert. The trifle is elegant to buck the standard, with vermouth-soaked sponge (what else?) and rosella flower jelly.

Vermouth. Natives. The brief may be narrow, but in such assured hands, the experience is not.

Must eat: Mussels cooked in white vermouth, green olives, nettle butter