This Melbourne Vietnamese export is serving up authentic fare, and fast, for those nights when a quick fix is needed, writes Anooska Tucker-Evans.
It’s become a cheap and cheerful favourite with Melburnians – now home-style Vietnamese eatery Banoi is set to make its mark on Brisbane.
The handiwork of cousins Michael Nham and Viet Nguyen, the casual, no-frills diner is an ode to their grandmother’s classic family recipes and childhood dinners with favourites such as pho, rice paper rolls and vermicelli noodle bowls.
The glossy, bound menu is almost a Vietnamese for Dummies guide, with pictures of each of the dishes and corresponding codes, which diners write on an order form and give to one of the friendly, speed-focused waitstaff.

Speed is also the emphasis of the kitchen, with dishes churning out at a pace to make The Flash envious.
Of the five baos available, our cotton-light bun is filled with a thick slab of barbecued pork steak complete with the obligatory caramelised, crispy edges, plus pickled carrot, hoisin and spring onions, creating a moreish, two-bite snack.
Sinewy pieces of thin beef are a little challenging to chew in the classic bun bo hue noodle soup, but the broth’s balance of flavour is bang-on.
In the banh cuon, the pork and shiitake mushroom mix is dominated by saccharine notes from a sticky soy marinade. But the rolled rice noodle pancakes are still a hit, especially thanks to the wicked Chinese doughnuts, which for the uninitiated are like crunchy, deep-fried breadsticks.

The drinks list is fairly uninspired but offers just enough to find a suitable food pairing. However, this fun, high-turnover eatery is not really the home of lengthy drinking sessions.
Instead, it’s about simple, wholesome food served fresh and fast for those nights and days when cooking just seems all too hard.
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