There’s been a blurring of the lines between restaurant and wine bar lately and Bar Brosè, owned by the team behind ACME and head chef Analiese Gregory, is archetypal of a venue that is both and neither.

It is a place where one can simply drink, snack or have a full dinner. This may be a casual drop-in venue, but it is really about the moment where Sydney gets to experience the cooking talents of Gregory, an alumni of Quay, The Ledbury, Le Meurice, Bras and Mugaritz.

Raw dry aged rump cap is sliced into strips, coated in sesame oil and garnished with coffee powder and pickled raspberries. Fermented jalepeno adds a kick to flowering fried onion.

House-made ricotta mellows the astringency of unripened plum, then soft, fluffy gnocchi gets an Asian makeover to partner lap cheong, chilli and kombu butter. Oddly delicious. It’s fun, adventurous and very Sydney right now.

Must eat: Late night sandwich