Bar Clementine might be a clever morphing of a bar and restaurant, but its true lure is the warm and gentle manner of host and owner Eric Morris (formerly Porteño, Bloodwood). It’s a return of the old school Maitre d’, and although his name isn’t above the door like way back in the day, there is a sense of stepping back in time for old-school values and hospitality that make this quaint newbie an absolute winner. The big old dame of a corner terrace needs a little love on the outside, but the transformation inside is stunning. It’s an intimate space with sit-at marble bar, chestnut brown timbers, classic bistro chairs and marble tabletops perched against a run of banquettes, plus hand-drawn artwork by local artist Connor Keighran.

The cocktails are classic, crisp, dry and shaken-not-stirred, and the wine list is a succinct example of what to drink right now. Meanwhile, in the kitchen chef Craig Grey is dishing up classic bistro dishes that are beautifully executed and free from fuss. Start with a fistful of hectic nuts (they’re spicy), a plate of charcuterie and maybe even a plate of cheese. Roasted cauliflower benefits from miso and pickled onion. A simple, light pork and veal terrine comes with pickles and sourdough. Spaghetti carbonara is moreish with each bite, bolstered by pecorino and a generous dose of noix de jambon.

But the steak frites is the absolute go-to. Charred flank, served blushingly pink with crisp fries and a sauce of Worcestershire, mustard and cayenne pepper, it’s a mere $24 and one of the best in town.