“We have a bit of a thing for wine,’’ say the folks at Bar Liberty.

Do they ever. This hip watering hole on the outer edge of Fitzroy has a truly eclectic wine list: Old World and New World; sparkling in every form, from pet nat to cremant and Champagne; wines described as ‘strong’, ‘energetic’, ‘macerated’ and ‘without sugar’; and we haven’t even got to the ‘fermented beverages’ list that includes sour beer “that wants to be wine’’, nor sake, cider and ‘fortified things’.

Despite this impressive offering, Bar Liberty’s charms are far greater than the sum of its alcohol-soaked parts.

Eighteen months into their ownership of this one-time taqueria, sommelier Banjo Harris Plane (ex-Attica) and Rockwell & Sons chef Casey Wall have got the food-booze mix down pat. Meaning you can team that fizzy wine from the Jura with lime-cured scallops, that obscure rosato from Sicily with cured beef, and Wall’s moreish warm sourdough flatbread with any and all of the above!

Order the great-value $60 set menu and you might land a peppery bucatini alla cacio e pepe cooked the right side of al dente, or gloriously tender chicken draped with Japanese greens.

Wall’s flavours are always bold. That includes his marvellous medley of tangelo, sour meringue and yoghurt sorbet, best taken with a Pennyweight muscat from Rutherglen.

Liberty, quality, fraternity. It’s all here.

Must eat dish: Roasted chicken leg, senposai, seaweed butter
Instagram: @bar.liberty