The cooking, now back in the hands of co-owner Sam Worrall-Thompson, is exceptional, the wine a good match. Both come at prices that make semi-regular attendance feasible. Two adjacent shop-fronts are split between a bar flanked by a terrazzo-topped high table and the main dining space, with veneer, banquettes and boucle-covered cushions in pinks and browns that might remind you of Aunty Beryl’s lounge room. Not that we’d recommend taking an elderly relative.

Bar Lune is L-O-U-D, partly due to the acoustics but also because everyone seems in good spirits. The 20 or so dishes are an eclectic mix of Asian, Middle Eastern, Italian and other Euro influences, with the only definitive rule being that they work with the wine.

A grilled skewer of ox tongue slices is a melting, mildly bacon-y pleasure alongside a tonnato-style mayonnaise, capers and grated pecorino. Shredded broccoli rabe is sautéed with garlic and chilli to create the base for a classic orecchiette pasta from Italy’s Puglia region. Then it is off to Malaysia for barbecued squid, its main tube dissected like a large spring, slathered with an oily tomato and chilli sambal.

For dessert, semi-frozen sesame halva is adorned with pistachios, rhubarb puree and a drizzle of thick butterscotch sauce.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.