Relief is a much-valued feeling for a critic. It can mean anything from a restaurant meeting expectation, to ‘thank god they didn’t poison me’. At Bar Patrón by Rockpool, the relief is wonderfully overwhelming.

In Australia, when it comes to proper Mexican restaurants, we’ve been a gringo short of a Mariachi troupe for far too long. Instead we’ve been tossed a sombrero full of cheesy Tex Mex and its various trappings. But Bar Patrón is different. Perched on the cusp of the harbour, it’s housed in the former Café Ananas (and Café Nice with Saint Peter’s Josh Niland before that).

The room is fabulously free from the naff cliche papier-mâché paraphernalia that suburban burrito dens deliver. Think white walls, tiled floors, with Italian upholstered deep-set chairs and banquettes, a big marble bar and views of the harbour. It’s very Neil Perry, and although the space may be sharper than a fourth grader’s HB, don’t fear, the food has not been worked to such a fine point. Mexican’s big colourful soul could be lost with too much sophistication.

In the kitchen Mexican chef Pamela Valdes Pardo revives recipes learnt from her grandmother in grand style. She’s making everything on site and it manifests in an electric eating experience.

While sipping (there’s no slamming here) your Patrón tequila-based cocktail, dip thick corn chips into pineapple habanero salsa.

Empanadas are large, crisp, light and filled with superbly spiced beef mince. A mango salsa adds spark to slightly seared tuna and creamy guacamole tostadas, then the sweet caramel of charred pineapple partners grilled pork on a trio of tiny tacos. Dense, yet light tortillas provide a vehicle for red rice, de repollo (cabbage), and grilled flathead, while pork mole enmoladas are pleasing, too.

On the whole, it was probably the best meal I’ve had this year and perhaps a case where relief becomes hallelujah.