Adios bad tacos. The newest addition to the Neil Perry portfolio delivers sexy mexy cuisine in a stunning harbourside setting. Modelled on a hacienda, the interiors are etched with grand detail, from the cut-out ceiling and embossed glass walls to the tan leather armchairs that make you feel as though you own it all. In the absence of a big, fat cigar, what you probably want next is that sweet agave nectar – “Tequila!” – and thankfully there’s no shortage of the devil’s water. Choose from Patrón Silver, Roco or Platinum, either straight from the bottle or shaken into the house margarita, an intensely tangy creation with an impenetrable salt rim.

Sydney’s devoted avo fans will appreciate the generosity of Bar Patron’s guacamole, a vibrant green smash lifted with salt and citrus which also doubles as a cooling condiment throughout the meal. Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty; much of the menu relies on folding, smearing, dipping and wiping. It’s the use of corn – not wheat – in the tortillas that gives them their chewy texture and sweet, earthy smell. Swaddle them up in fried fish dressed in pico de gallo, or better yet, juicy spit-roasted pork and caramelised pineapple – the famous ‘Al Pastor’. Churros con chocolate are a world away from the street caravan variety. The star-shaped strips manage to be both soft and crisp, finished with a toasty sprinkling of warm Latin spices.