Sure, it’s a bar – arguably the best in the country, thanks to a free-spirited foray into what to drink right now – but Bar Rochford is also putting all the restaurants in town on notice.

Start with snapper ceviche with lemon myrtle and rhubarb, a light chicken and tarragon terrine, or plum and lardo on toast. A balanced and clever mix of persimmon and nori add complexity to the oozing delight of burrata, while mustard leaf and coffee butter make best mates with blushing skirt steak. Just leave room for a digestif or two at Bacaro, the wine bar at the back.