Loosely Lebanese laneway bolthole Bar Saracen takes its popular opening gambits – the flaky borek, silky hummus, crisp-fried okra – and 18 months in, raises you some new favourites.

There’s the saltbush lamb, cooked over coals, well rested and sliced, and glossed in a sweet quince molasses with a sprinkling of pistachios. Beautiful stuff, as is the chicken kebab amped to 11 with garlic and turmeric. 

Of course, you still want to order the pillowy flatbreads for that hummus, this time laden with spanner crab and prawns, and finish with the mamool – hot cheese-filled biscuits to splodge with fig and sesame jam.

Themed cocktails and interesting, well-chosen wines match the menu at this enticing and delicious take on ancient Arabic flavours that’s so very now. 

Must Eat Dish: Lamb, quince molasses, pistachio