Byron Bay’s favourite beachfront restaurant has had a makeover, and now the food is almost as breathtaking as the views.

If that doesn’t sound like a resounding endorsement, you obviously haven’t seen the view in question. It is, quite simply, the stuff of postcards. And Beach is the only restaurant in Byron Bay to enjoy a prized, absolute beachfront position, nestled above the dunes of Clarkes Beach, overlooking the crashing waves of the Pacific, with blue skies as far as the eye can see.

Although it’s obvious a fair whack of cash has gone into creating that ever-so-understated crisp white interior, the space retains some of its former beach-shack charm, with clever use of recycled timber and a retractable roof to let the sunshine in. The new format is a joint venture between long-time Byron restaurateurs Ben and Belinda Kirkwood – who owned and operated the Beach Café on this site for many years – and the Fink Group behind Sydney’s Quay, Bennelong and Otto restaurants, and the recently opened Otto Brisbane.

Add former Uccello chef David Lovett into the bargain and it makes for a very hard act to follow in these parts. Lovett is well known for his unfussy Italian-inspired menus, but given Beach is (for the time being) only serving breakfast and lunch, there’s an even lighter touch than usual, with seafood taking a leading role.

Partly because those irregularly shaped noodles are often found in the classic Sienese dish pici cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) sauce, and partly because Lovett’s version is so damn creamy, it is a surprise to learn there is no cheese – indeed, no dairy – in the dish whatsoever. Cloudy Bay clams are perfectly paired with nduja toast, chickpeas and cime de rapa (turnip leaves). Stand not on ceremony. Dip that spicy toast into the salty clam broth and soak up the natural flavour of the clam juice for the ultimate umami hit. There are also some particularly vibrant vegetable dishes on offer: think coal-grilled corn with mint and pecorino, Byron Bay burrata with charred broccolini, and zuppa verde with parmesan.

The whole fish of the day – in this case Barramundi – elicits a hefty dose of menu envy when it arrives at the neighbouring table, bringing with it the aromas of butter and lemon. Yamba prawns are given the same light touch: roasted with butter and curry leaves and served with a lemon cheek.

Before you bemoan the departure of the quaint little kiosk at the front of the former café, hush your mouth. It’s also been tarted up a treat, but still sells fish and chips, oysters, jaffles and ice creams. So if you’ve failed to reserve a table, or have wandered up from the beach covered in sand, you can grab a bite to eat, head barefoot back over the dunes, and still enjoy that view.