In a town where a new restaurant seems to open every other week, 21-year-old Becco still has the keys to this Italian-hearted city.

Becco’s good bones, in the form of that smart, terrazzo-floored dining room and panoramic laneway lookout, paired with flawless cooking cements its continued place above dining trends and fads.

There’s business and political types doing lunch by day, and flirty couples and a pre-theatre crowd by night enjoying the Becco brand of Italian comfort food flashed with brilliance.

Entrees are impeccable. Plump rings of chilli flour-dusted calamari are luxuriously tender to swipe through a sparky jalapeno aioli, while paper-thin beef carpaccio, loaded with rocket, capers, parmesan and a pitch-perfect Worcestershire mayo, melts in the mouth.

Pasta is another highlight via a joyous fettuccine with bitter cime di rapa and juicy nubs of pork sausage. Italian staples also star. Pull-apart osso bucco lands on a bed of silky saffron risotto laced with bone marrow to savour with an excellent red from a wide and sensibly priced list.

Traditional desserts include a memorably wicked gooey-centred chocolate fondant with hazelnut cream.

Service is attentive yet breezy, with staff who work the room and bar with panache.

Becco is a reliable pleasure that’s classically stylish and tasty at every turn.

Must eat dish: Fettucine with pork sausage
Instagram: @beccorestaurant