When Beccofino opened in 2004, it became a restaurant worth crossing town for and a favourite among locals. Little has changed.

They don’t take bookings, so on a Friday or Saturday evening arrive early or expect to wait up to 45 minutes for a table. Leave your name and come back or perch on a stool near the window and drink while you wait. The latter is a good option while sipping an Aperol spritz or choose from the decent list of French, Italian or Australian wines by the glass.

Knowledgeable, friendly staff recite the specials on a menu that only makes slight seasonal changes. A few favourites never leave though, such as the pappardelle al ragu d’anatra – flat ribbon pasta with a duck and tomato ragu.

Affettati misti (cured meats) is generous with mixed olives that are warm and marinated. A thinly sliced bresaola is a nice addition to the prosciutto and salami. Zeppole is the standout – a savoury take on the south Italian deep-fried dough ball. Crisp spheres come stuffed with whipped buffalo mozzarella and a spoonful of tomato sugo that has enough sweetness to balance the saltiness of the dough.

Pizza has long been the standout here, with toppings including the salsiccia – crisp crust with a thin but satisfyingly chewy base, topped with chilli, mozzarella, provolone, pork and fennel sausage, and rocket.

Beccofino’s decor is simple, if a little dated, but this is no hipster joint – people come for the great service, consistently excellent woodfired pizza and traditional but never boring Italian fare.

Must-eat dish: Duck pappardelle
Instagram: @beccofinoteneriffe