Don’t mess with the formula – or in this case the recipe – is the approach of owners of this New Farm institution, who have been serving up award-winning pizza and pasta for 15 years.

This casual Italian eatery makes thoughtful seasonal tweaks to its menu but favourites remain to keep regular customers happy. Plus rotating specials keep things interesting.

An aperitif, prosecco, or a one of the many Italian drops by the glass, pair well with the creative anti-pasti.

A light choice is the pesce crudo – delicate pieces of wafter-thin kingfish, sit with fennel shavings, blood orange, capers and radicchio. Or start decadent with roasted pork belly, crunchy cos, apple, celery and walnuts.

There’s a focus on modern Italian la carte mains but where Beccofino excels is pizza and pasta.

But by far the most popular dish is the pappardelle al ragu d’anatra (duck ragu), as is the margherita pizza on its signature wood-fired base with tomato, fior di latter and basil.

In keeping with the authentic approach is the simple funghi misti with mozzarella, mixed mushrooms and thyme – a great choice.

Staff are friendly and knowledgeable and the atmosphere far more relaxed than at its sister restaurant Julius in South Brisbane.

Must-eat dish: duck ragu