Obligation is an odd word to use in regards to a restaurant, but there was a sense of it when The Fink Group — owners of Quay — were given the keys to Bennelong.

Under the sails of the Sydney Opera House, there was a feeling that chef Peter Gilmore and his brigade had a duty to deliver something uniquely Australian and special.

What has transpired is nothing short of spectacular. And given the versatility of experiences on offer, it’s pipped big brother Quay on our list.

A smart drinking bar, pre-theatre dining space, the cure and cultured bar, the dining room proper and now a chef’s table in the kitchen too make it almost a perfect restaurant.

At night melted bulb clusters enliven leather banquettes, deep red Acanto chairs and translucent Marblo and brass tables, but by day the sweeping views from Coat Hanger to cityscape silhouette wrap around its windows for the most spectacular of settings.

An Australian-heavy wine list is an enlightening joy to peruse and the service is smart and sincere. In the kitchen Rob Cockerill and Peter Gilmore have designed a menu that is in one part seasonal, another technically astounding, big on flavour and a touch of nostalgia too.

Manjimup truffles ripple atop pumpkin confit in butter. Meanwhile John Dory, the hero fish of NSW, is cooked on the bone then lathered in chef’s signature, and intoxicatingly delicious ‘umami butter. But it is the final act that will have them cheering in the stalls. A playful passionfruit pavlova wears dainty meringue wisps to mimic the building, while the humble Australia’s very own lamington gets a slick new look with shaved coconut parfait decorating it.

Must eat: Macleay Valley Suckling pig, confit organic carrots, pickled onions, black & white garlic