In a dish of sashimi scallops, it lends a delicate crunch to an otherwise silky smooth oyster cream dressing. Later, we find it playing a supporting role in a magical dish of lightly seared coral trout, flown in from the Great Barrier Reef, served with shavings of southern squid on a koji emulsion bed.

Granted, turnips aren’t the only star of the show. There’s the knockout location inside the Sydney Opera House; the impeccable level of service on the dining room floor; and attention to detail from the kitchen led by chefs Peter Gilmore and Rob Cockerill. But back to the menu. 

Tasmanian octopus served with peanuts, sesame aioli, and a heavenly warming ssamjang successfully takes top billing on a stellar three-course menu that reads like an all-star cast of the flavours of modern Australia. Just as exciting is the wine list by head sommelier Jeremy Croft that focuses on 200 small-label producers, spanning local drops from the Hunter to premier cru Chablis from Burgundy. 

The now-iconic pavlova, complete with meringue shards replicating the Opera House sails, is a sure-fire way to end the performance on a high note. Bennelong, take a bow.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.