It’s hard to believe it was over a decade ago that the Bentley boys’ Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt sunk the boot into culinary convention with food and wine embodying all the attitude of the British punk rock —with far more style and sophistication of course.

Their impact though is undeniable. The original was housed in a former late-night swillhouse where Savage challenged gastronomy and Hildebrandt opened our eyes to new world wines. But Bentley grew up and moved into the belly of the CBD and in the process helped redefine contemporary Australian dining.

A dazzling design with dark woods, modular black tubes floating above the diners and low hanging bulbs and the wine list is just as left-of-centre, though high in the quaffable rating.

There is a maturity in Savage’s food, but he’s not lost his sense of adventure. Kohlrabi combines with soft, creamy calamari. Pork cheek cops an acidic punch from garlic-scented yoghurt. Meanwhile gently seared quail benefits from smoked celery and white soy. Pumpkin and green olive add to the earthiness of bass groper. Sure the Bentley has grown up, become a little more conservative, and consistent, but it still manages remains one of the few restaurants to take diners out of their comfort zone.