In 2006 two young guns, Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt, kicked over the culinary applecart with food and wine embodying all the attitude of the British punk movement. Albeit with a sense of style and sophistication too, but their impact is undeniable. Housed in the former ‘extra late’ night cap corner pub, Savage splashed plates with a creative flair that challenged our palate, while Hildebrandt opened our eyes to a new world of wine.

After relinquishing the youthful exuberance of Surry Hills they moved, and matured, the Bentley to the CBD and in the process helped redefine contemporary dining in Australia. The flagship of this small group is one of style, substance and is oh so Sydney in more ways than most. A dazzling design by Pascale Gomes-McNabb deals with dark woods, hanging bulbs and modular black tubes that float above the diners. And although they’ve shed that adolescent attitude, they’ve not lost any of their sense of adventure in the kitchen or on the floor.

Calamari and kohlrabi make for unexpectedly good bedfellows. Garlic-scented yoghurt provides an acidic punch to temper pork cheek, while smoked celery and white soy let quail take flight. Chestnut and cumquat cuddle up to chicken lathered in brown butter, while fennel pollen adds an aniseed kicker to opaque snapper. Bentley may have grown up but its willingness to take the diner out of their comfort zone with such confidence and consistency is evidence that with risk comes incredible reward.

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