Despite being directly attached to the lobby, there’s absolutely nothing staid or standardised about this in-house dining experience. For starters, the walls have been splashed with inky paint, while an installation of scaffolding bars hangs dramatically overhead. Nor is it usual to have hospitality royalty like Brent Savage in the kitchen.

While hotel guests may prefer the easy-going a la carte option, it’s the 7-course tasting menu that attracts the serious foodies about town. The menu is uncompromisingly cheffy, bringing exceptional ingredients together in new and daring ways.

Kangaroo kebabs are coated in a native-spiced pepperberry crumb. Slips of pearl meat arrive glistening in an apple and elderflower broth. Savage saves the best for last. A fennel ice cream is rich on roasted caramel notes, carefully balanced with sweet tropical pineapple and well-rounded melon.

With Nick Hildebrandt on the wines, it pays to get the wine pairing, or go rogue and pick your own from the 1000+ strong list. The only way to make the evening better is to hang back with another bottle of Burgundy and stay the night.

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