One of the most creative partnerships in Australian restaurants, Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt can shift focus with ease, covering the food groups in their equally noteworthy eateries. At Cirrus in Barangaroo you can almost see your fish and eat it, too. In Potts Point, Monopole nimbly straddles the wine bar-restaurant divide, while at Yellow, vegetables get degustation status. Here, at flagship restaurant Bentley, it’s a broader palette for their combined artistry. The constant seam through all venues is Hildebrandt’s wine smarts and Savage’s precision cooking.

When the duo moved Bentley from its fairly modest site in Surry Hills into a heritage building in the city, they had a room more befitting of the sophistication on the plate, given a dramatic makeover by their long-time architect collaborator Pascale Gomes-McNabb.

House-made rye bread with black sesame butter sets the tone of the offering: refined and inventive, yet always rooted in deliciousness and never overcomplicated. You’re in good hands.

A cast of unexpected players support the heroes on the plates. Western Australian marron lolls in an earthy-sweet onion broth, bass grouper is bolstered by garlicky pil pil sauce and showered with sunflower shoots, while green rice and broad bean shoots are surprisingly lifted with a piquant kohlrabi sauce. Dessert is no different. Ribbons of pumpkin, for instance, concealing pumpkin curd are like old friends with brown butter ice cream and mandarin gel.

With service as urbane as the food, this is relaxed fine dining for grown-ups.