Nuzzling a languid tributary of the Hawkesbury River is Berowra Waters Inn, a restaurant that undoubtedly embodies the cliché of the ‘hidden gem’. It’s just an hour or so from the city, but seems a world away thanks to its ample seclusion from the bright lights and hustle. Built as a teahouse in the 1920s, Berowra Waters Inn was revamped in the 1970s by architect Glenn Murcutt into its current structure – a nest of Sydney sandstone, corrugated tin, and glass louvres.

First impressions tend to count and the Inn doesn’t disappoint; it sits isolated on the riverbank, offering guests unrivalled views of the Hawkesbury waterfront and the passing parade of boats that potter the stretch. Accessible only by the Inn’s private boat or if you’re feeling a little extra, by seaplane, the restaurant has the wow-factor down pat.

Current head chef Brian Geraghty came into ownership of Berowra Waters Inn in 2012, matching its postcard-worthy setting to an innovative menu that has successfully conquered the art of the degustation. The six-course ever-changing set menu is a foray into local flavours, with adventurous dishes served in abstract forms, accompanied by gels aplenty.

Surprises are integrated throughout, with canapés to begin, petits fours to finish and a palate cleanser before the sweet finale. Even the bread and butter offering is far from typical: a brioche bun accompanied by butter spiked with salted treacle. Dishes are coupled with a wholly Australian drinks list, through which the sommelier (thankfully) leads you by the hand. The restaurant is a secret you won’t want to share but greedily keep to yourself.

Must-eat dish: Goat’s cheese, pistachio & mandarin