Brian Geraghty’s diner has long been a favourite with weekend long-lunchers, and the arrival of Melbourne pastry chef Lauren Eldridge took it up another notch. The light-filled dining room makes the most of its location, with all tables providing river views, and the neutral decor and warmth from the kitchen brings a cosiness to the space. Staff are friendly, knowledgeable and experienced – no mean feat in the current staff-shortage landscape.

The six-course menu benefits from a seasonal rotation of local produce, with suggested drinks pairings for each. A buttery Sigurd Hoyde Chardonnay teams nicely with beautifully light kingfish, followed by succulent Murray cod with yuzu and pepper. A perfectly-sized portion of tender glazed duck comes with juicy blueberries and lavender. But the real winner of the meal is Eldridge’s stunning yoghurt dessert, with impossibly thin rhubarb curls and a scattering of Davidson plum powder, blissfully enjoyed outdoors on the deck.  

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